Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Beautiful Brows

Nothing completes your makeup look like finishing touches such as filling in your eyebrows. Not only do they frame the face, but if done correctly, they can open the eye more, lift the lid and give you a finished and more professional look.
When I was younger, I unfortunately got extremely tweezer happy and decided to butcher my poor eyebrows within an inch of their lives! It's safe to say they haven't grown back! Because of this, I will rarely leave the house without filling in my brows!
This is how I achieve my eyebrow look:

1. I first brush through the natural hairs in my brow, making sure all the hairs are going in the same direction, I do this using a spoolie brush.

2. Due to all the hairs sitting in the direction of growth, I can then see any stray hairs that need to be plucked. I usually pluck stray hairs everyday, I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my brows!
If your trying to grow out your eyebrows, it's best to draw the eyebrow on first and then to pluck around it as you then aren't tempted to pluck any strays that are growing into your natural shape that you want due to them being covered with shadow.

3. Now the brow is nice and neat, I use my Sigma F70 concealer brush and I can now map out where I want my brow to be starting at the arch. The arch is the highest area of the brow before it curves downwards. I love elongated brows, so I like my arch to be right above the outside corner of my eye.
I use MAC NC20 to do this as it is much lighter in colour to my foundation, so it acts as a highlight to the brow bone.
I then use my Sigma P80 flat precision kabuki eye brush to blend the concealer into the foundation flawlessly.

4. Next step is the colour in the brow. I use Inglot 329 chocolate matte eyeshadow as it suits my hair colour. The colour of your brows should always match the root of your natural hair colour.
I personally use a brow brush from an old Sephora travel brush set, but any angled brow brush will do. I find real hair brushes hold the product a lot better and prevents too much downfall from the shadow onto the face.
I start the shadow at the arch and I carve out the tail of the brow by extending the tail out more than my natural hair, both top and bottom so the shadow meets at the tip.I then fill in between these lines.
Then, not leaning as much on the brush so the intensity of the shadow is softer, I define the bottom of the brow inwards towards the nose. This should be in line with your nostrils (you can use your makeup brush along the nose to measure where this is to suit your own personal eye shape). Again leaning lightly, I do the same at the top so I am left with a defined shape.
Using the excess product on my brush, I fill in the inner part of the brow nice and lighltly.

5. With the brow drawn on, I then take my spoolie brush again and I brush through the inner part of my brow. To soften and disperse the colour through the natural hairs.

6. I carve under the brow again with my concealer and brush to achieve a clean carving.

7. I then highlight the brow bone using a MAC 239 flat eyeshadow brush and a mixture of Inglot 46 (all under the brow) and 393 (focused under the arch) to reflect the light giving the illusion that the brow is more prominent.

8. I give a light coating is Essence clear mascara brow gel to set and keep my natural hairs in place.

And that's it guys! I know it seems like a lot but it'll make a huge difference to your makeup!
I'd love to see how you get on! If on Instagram tag me your brows under @missjenifat and #religionrising.
See how you get on!!


Thursday, October 25, 2012

Application of Product

Your application of makeup is an extremely crucial step in achieving that flawless, professional look.

1. Many people use their fingers to apply their foundation. This method may seem like the best option to some but it is not recommended as you end up pushing half of your product into your fingertips, therefore using up to double the amount necessary. You also are doing a rub on-rub off method as not all of the product is being transferred onto the face, again a waste of foundation!
Your fingertips are naturally very oily. As the hands are being constantly used throughout the day, the body develops oils to protect the skin, by applying your makeup with your fingers, you are transferring these oils onto the face which can result in an unnecessary breakout.
Not only breakouts, but these oils can also prevent your foundation from setting properly, so your foundation can separate and move on the face throughout the day giving you a patchy look to your makeup.

2. Application of foundation using a sponge is another method I would never recommend. If using a sponge to apply makeup to your own face (never use the same sponge on different people without cleaning and sterilising it first) you should be changing it at least once a week. Most people don't do this!
A makeup sponge is a perfect place for bacteria to grow and to multiply. By using the sponge, you are then transferring this bacteria onto your face which will almost definitely cause breakouts!
Another negative to using a sponge is that it absorbs a lot of your product. It essentially drinks your foundation so you will find yourself working your way through your bottle very quickly.
When applying foundation with a sponge, you drag the skin and any foundation on it, therefore, again achieving the rub on-rub off method.

There is a sponge I would recommend, the infamous beauty blender. This sponge is a 3D teardrop shape and can apply foundation flawlessly. You first dampen the sponge and squeeze out any excess water. You then stipple the product onto the skin using the beauty blender to achieve that flawless base. I would definitely recommend washing this sponge after every use (especially if using it on other people). I'm not sure if it is the density, shape or texture of this certain sponge which makes it so good, but it gets a definite thumbs up from me!
I recommend MAC Beauty Blender €18/€19, Models Own do two for around €12 or for the tighter budgets, H&M do a version for around €4.

And so this leaves me to the brushes:
3. The flat foundation brush comes in all shapes and sizes. On clients, I use this brush to firstly apply their primer and then to apply a first layer of foundation, I then apply a fine second layer using a stipple brush which I will explain further on.
I find the flat foundation brush easy to use on clients as it can be easily directed into small areas of the face.
I however don't like to use this brush to apply my own foundation. I find it hard to build up the coverage of a foundation with this brush alone and unwanted lines can be easily overlooked as they are harder to blend out.
A definite plus to this brush is whatever product you put on this brush, around 98% of the foundation is transferred onto the face. The brush does not absorb the product and is so simple to spot clean or deep cleanse. They also last you years if you invest in a good one!
I love the MAC 190 €32 or Sigma F60 €11.

4. Last but not least is the stipple brush. You can get these in different bristle lengths, shapes and hair types.
What makes these brushes so unique is the blend of synthetic(longer bristles, usually white) and real hair(usually black). This blend of different bristles helps to push the product right into the skin, making the foundation not only last longer but also helps you achieve a flawless looking complexion that appears smoother.
Due to the shape of the brush, the individual hairs do all the work for you. They not only push the product into the skin but they blend out the product effortlessly, leaving you line free! You can also build up the coverage by pushing the brush onto the skin, it can build up beautifully!
This brush, like the flat foundation brush, transfers most of the product onto the face. Not only does the makeup last longer on your face, but you will find you will get longer out of your bottle too!
I would definitely recommend the Sigma F15 Duo Fibre Blusher Brush to apply foundation as I love the size and the dome shape to the brush, €14.

Try it out guys and see if you see a difference in your makeup!!