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Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Luscious Lashes

Lashes can be a bit of a tricky one if you're not used to applying them, but don't worry, there are lots of tricks to help you achieve those sexy, sultry, luscious lashes!

Quick Tip:
Always apply liner before you apply your false eyelashes as it will fill in any gap between the real lashes and the false ones which you won't be able to get to when your falsies are on!
Liquid or gel liner is the best to use as it will glide on easily over the lash line, a pencil however will drag along the skin and may cause the lash to lift from the skin!

1. All lashes are made larger than the typical eye so that they fit all shapes and sizes. It is important to cut all strip false lashes to your eye size to avoid the excess drooping at the sides giving you that sleepy, dragged down look. If the lash fits the eye properly they are a lot more comfortable to wear and they are less likely to lift at the corners! Remove the lash carefully from the box using a tweezers gripping the outside corner if the lash (this is because if you damage the lash while removing it from the box, you are more than likely going to be cutting this bit off to fit your eye shape). Using the same tweezers, hold the lash upto the eye and see where you need to trim the edges to suit your eye!
Note: Always cut the lash from the outer corner. If you cut from the inner corner the lash fibres will look too long and give you an unnatural finish!

2. Using a cotton bud, take some eyelash adhesive (DUO glue is the best to use) and run the glue along the band if the lash. Make sure there is not too much or too little, just enough to cover the band!
Note: The thinner the band the easier the lash is to apply and blend with your natural lashes. If the band is quite thick it can be tricky to keep corners down and some you would need a thick liquid/gel liner to disguise the band with your makeup.

3. Wait! I know this sounds strange, but if you apply the lash straight away, the glue is so wet that it will slide on the eye and take ages to set, therefore ruining your makeup masterpiece!
Wait until the glue gets slightly tacky in consistency(around 15-20 seconds) and then apply. Place the outer corner on first and wait for it to begin setting, then bring the rest of the lash inwards towards the inner part of the eye. This will make the application much easier. Allow the lash to set before moving on.
Note: Do this looking into a mirror below you as it will be easier to place the lash on when the natural lashes are pointing downwards.

4. Apply more eyeliner. This will get rid of any visible lashline or any thick areas of glue. Always wait for glue to dry completely before doing this step.

5. Apply mascara. By applying mascara after the false lashes it helps to blend the natural lashes into the false ones so they sit better. Always make sure to coat the lashes right down to the root of the lash so it not only gives you maximum length but it costs any visible blonde hairs too.

6. Always keep your lash box. After your night out remove lashes and put them back onto the false lids in the box and you can reuse them again!!

And there you go ladies. Remember all lashes are reusable if you look after them so be careful removing them so they don't get out of shape!!

Enjoy your luscious lashes ladies

Jx

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Beautiful Brows

Nothing completes your makeup look like finishing touches such as filling in your eyebrows. Not only do they frame the face, but if done correctly, they can open the eye more, lift the lid and give you a finished and more professional look.
When I was younger, I unfortunately got extremely tweezer happy and decided to butcher my poor eyebrows within an inch of their lives! It's safe to say they haven't grown back! Because of this, I will rarely leave the house without filling in my brows!
This is how I achieve my eyebrow look:

1. I first brush through the natural hairs in my brow, making sure all the hairs are going in the same direction, I do this using a spoolie brush.

2. Due to all the hairs sitting in the direction of growth, I can then see any stray hairs that need to be plucked. I usually pluck stray hairs everyday, I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my brows!
If your trying to grow out your eyebrows, it's best to draw the eyebrow on first and then to pluck around it as you then aren't tempted to pluck any strays that are growing into your natural shape that you want due to them being covered with shadow.

3. Now the brow is nice and neat, I use my Sigma F70 concealer brush and I can now map out where I want my brow to be starting at the arch. The arch is the highest area of the brow before it curves downwards. I love elongated brows, so I like my arch to be right above the outside corner of my eye.
I use MAC NC20 to do this as it is much lighter in colour to my foundation, so it acts as a highlight to the brow bone.
I then use my Sigma P80 flat precision kabuki eye brush to blend the concealer into the foundation flawlessly.

4. Next step is the colour in the brow. I use Inglot 329 chocolate matte eyeshadow as it suits my hair colour. The colour of your brows should always match the root of your natural hair colour.
I personally use a brow brush from an old Sephora travel brush set, but any angled brow brush will do. I find real hair brushes hold the product a lot better and prevents too much downfall from the shadow onto the face.
I start the shadow at the arch and I carve out the tail of the brow by extending the tail out more than my natural hair, both top and bottom so the shadow meets at the tip.I then fill in between these lines.
Then, not leaning as much on the brush so the intensity of the shadow is softer, I define the bottom of the brow inwards towards the nose. This should be in line with your nostrils (you can use your makeup brush along the nose to measure where this is to suit your own personal eye shape). Again leaning lightly, I do the same at the top so I am left with a defined shape.
Using the excess product on my brush, I fill in the inner part of the brow nice and lighltly.

5. With the brow drawn on, I then take my spoolie brush again and I brush through the inner part of my brow. To soften and disperse the colour through the natural hairs.

6. I carve under the brow again with my concealer and brush to achieve a clean carving.

7. I then highlight the brow bone using a MAC 239 flat eyeshadow brush and a mixture of Inglot 46 (all under the brow) and 393 (focused under the arch) to reflect the light giving the illusion that the brow is more prominent.

8. I give a light coating is Essence clear mascara brow gel to set and keep my natural hairs in place.

And that's it guys! I know it seems like a lot but it'll make a huge difference to your makeup!
I'd love to see how you get on! If on Instagram tag me your brows under @missjenifat and #religionrising.
See how you get on!!

Jx

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Application of Product

Your application of makeup is an extremely crucial step in achieving that flawless, professional look.

1. Many people use their fingers to apply their foundation. This method may seem like the best option to some but it is not recommended as you end up pushing half of your product into your fingertips, therefore using up to double the amount necessary. You also are doing a rub on-rub off method as not all of the product is being transferred onto the face, again a waste of foundation!
Your fingertips are naturally very oily. As the hands are being constantly used throughout the day, the body develops oils to protect the skin, by applying your makeup with your fingers, you are transferring these oils onto the face which can result in an unnecessary breakout.
Not only breakouts, but these oils can also prevent your foundation from setting properly, so your foundation can separate and move on the face throughout the day giving you a patchy look to your makeup.

2. Application of foundation using a sponge is another method I would never recommend. If using a sponge to apply makeup to your own face (never use the same sponge on different people without cleaning and sterilising it first) you should be changing it at least once a week. Most people don't do this!
A makeup sponge is a perfect place for bacteria to grow and to multiply. By using the sponge, you are then transferring this bacteria onto your face which will almost definitely cause breakouts!
Another negative to using a sponge is that it absorbs a lot of your product. It essentially drinks your foundation so you will find yourself working your way through your bottle very quickly.
When applying foundation with a sponge, you drag the skin and any foundation on it, therefore, again achieving the rub on-rub off method.

There is a sponge I would recommend, the infamous beauty blender. This sponge is a 3D teardrop shape and can apply foundation flawlessly. You first dampen the sponge and squeeze out any excess water. You then stipple the product onto the skin using the beauty blender to achieve that flawless base. I would definitely recommend washing this sponge after every use (especially if using it on other people). I'm not sure if it is the density, shape or texture of this certain sponge which makes it so good, but it gets a definite thumbs up from me!
I recommend MAC Beauty Blender €18/€19, Models Own do two for around €12 or for the tighter budgets, H&M do a version for around €4.

And so this leaves me to the brushes:
3. The flat foundation brush comes in all shapes and sizes. On clients, I use this brush to firstly apply their primer and then to apply a first layer of foundation, I then apply a fine second layer using a stipple brush which I will explain further on.
I find the flat foundation brush easy to use on clients as it can be easily directed into small areas of the face.
I however don't like to use this brush to apply my own foundation. I find it hard to build up the coverage of a foundation with this brush alone and unwanted lines can be easily overlooked as they are harder to blend out.
A definite plus to this brush is whatever product you put on this brush, around 98% of the foundation is transferred onto the face. The brush does not absorb the product and is so simple to spot clean or deep cleanse. They also last you years if you invest in a good one!
I love the MAC 190 €32 or Sigma F60 €11.

4. Last but not least is the stipple brush. You can get these in different bristle lengths, shapes and hair types.
What makes these brushes so unique is the blend of synthetic(longer bristles, usually white) and real hair(usually black). This blend of different bristles helps to push the product right into the skin, making the foundation not only last longer but also helps you achieve a flawless looking complexion that appears smoother.
Due to the shape of the brush, the individual hairs do all the work for you. They not only push the product into the skin but they blend out the product effortlessly, leaving you line free! You can also build up the coverage by pushing the brush onto the skin, it can build up beautifully!
This brush, like the flat foundation brush, transfers most of the product onto the face. Not only does the makeup last longer on your face, but you will find you will get longer out of your bottle too!
I would definitely recommend the Sigma F15 Duo Fibre Blusher Brush to apply foundation as I love the size and the dome shape to the brush, €14.

Try it out guys and see if you see a difference in your makeup!!

Jx

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Conquer Contouring

It's amazing what a bit of contouring can do to change the structure of the face. It not only creates depth in any hollow areas, it gives a bronzed, healthy effect and it slims down the face beautifully (and we ALL know we want that!). You can take contouring to the extreme or you can go very subtle, either way, it will change your makeup routine forever!
Contouring can be done using creams or powders. Your dark contour should be two to four shades darker than your foundation, depending on how dramatic you want the look to be. It should also be matte. A darker matte cream/powder will give the illusion of shadows, you place this strategically in any hollow areas for depth, to make it appear further away (eg. under cheekbones).
Your light contour, or your highlight, can be matte or a shimmer. Again, this should be two to four shades lighter than your foundation. This will give the appearance that the area is sticking out more (eg. on top of cheekbones). If your highlight has a shimmer, the metallic particles in this will reflect the light, giving a more dramatic effect. I personally prefer a matte finish to the face and would definitely recommend a matte to anyone conscious of fine lines around the eye area! A shiny highlight will just sit in these fine lines, drawing attention to them.

Getting started......

The cheeks:
Using the side of your baby finger, feel the hollows underneath the cheekbone. You will also notice, when you look straight into the mirror, there will already be a slight shadow from your natural cheekbone. This is the area we want to darken yet still giving the illusion that it is our natural shadow. Now we know where to darken, it's time to start using product.
You want to use a fluffy powder brush that isn't too large in size as you want to be able to control how much product goes on, and where! I find the angled goat hair F40 Sigma brush the best to use. Dip the brush into a small amount of product (not too much as you can always add more product, but it's harder to take product away!). Using small circular motions, apply the product to the hollow area. This motion will blend the product out and into your foundation colour giving a more professional look. Extend the colour from halfway down the cheekbone (under the outer corner of the eye) , all the way backwards to the hairline and your ear.

The forehead:
After contouring the cheeks right up to the hairline and the ear, extend the colour all the way around the hairline using the same brush. This will give a natural bronzed look as this would be the area that is first hit by the sun! This isn't the only purpose. If you have a forehead slightly on the larger side, this step is important for you! Extend the colour downwards slightly onto the forehead, deepening the colour and density of the product at the top two corners of the face and the temples at the side. Again this gives the appearance of a shadow, giving the illusion of a smaller area.

The nose:
I could not leave the house on a night out without contouring my nose! It's a bit of an obsession. If you want to make your nose look skinnier, take a clean fluffy eyeshadow brush (I like to use the crown angled, flat topped eyeshadow brush) and your contour powder and lightly line the sides of your nose all of the way down to the tip. This should go from the inside of your eyebrow, down both sides in a straight line, to the end. Ta-da, your welcome! A skinny nose!! If you want to make your nose shorter, using the same brush and contour, lightly apply some product to the bottom area of the nose, from nostril to nostril.

You then need a different brush to apply highlighter. I use the Sigma F05 as I find it is the perfect size for highlighting.
Take your product and apply it to any areas you want to stand out.

The cheeks:
Apply the product in circular motions on top of the cheekbones and around onto the temples of the cheeks closer to the edge of your eye. This will make your cheekbones stand out more, give the face a natural lift and help blend the product out into your foundation.

The nose:
If you have contoured the sides of your nose, you can add a small amount of highlight along the centre to make it look even skinnier.

MUA Tip: If your wearing a strapless top/dress, add a small amount of your highlight along the top of your collar bones!!

And there you have it. Your tips to conquer contouring. Let me know how you get on!!

Happy sculpting

Jx

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Halloween Horrors

Just a quick note to say ill be doing Halloween looks coming into October!! Leave a comment below to request any looks you guys wanna see!!

Jx

Monday, September 10, 2012

Lip Contouring

Whether its a fuller lip you're looking for, or a full blown trout pout, you need to follow these steps!

1. Whatever lipstick you have decided to wear, you need a lip liner that is two to three shades darker.
Establish where the outline of your natural lip is. Take your lip liner and with short strokes, trace the outline of your lip slightly on the outer edge.
You may need to do some corrective work to the lip for the shape to look even on both sides. Most people's lips are fuller on one side than the other. Take your time applying your products and always take a step back to look in the mirror to evaluate your work.
Colour the outer corners of the lip with the same pencil, this will add depth to the finished look.
2. Decide if you want a rounded or a pointed cupids bow. I personally prefer a more rounded look, but both look beautiful!
3. Apply your lipstick to the whole lip using a lip brush for a more defined look.
4. Using either a face highlight or an eyeshadow highlight, apply a small amount above the cupids bow. This will reflect the light making this area stand out more.
5. Whatever you use to contour your face(this should be a matte powder/cream around three shades darker than your foundation), use a small amount of this product underneath the bottom lip. This will create the effect of a shadow giving a much fuller effect.
6. Last but not least, use a lipgloss one or two shades lighter than your chosen lipstick. Apply this to the centre of the lip only.

And there you have it. You will have Angelina Jolie lips in no time!!

Mwah

Jx

Thursday, September 6, 2012

MOTD Natural Look

Being a rare sunny day in Dublin today, I decided to keep my makeup nice and natural looking.
I prepped the skin using my No.7 Beautifully Matte Makeup Base to keep my skin nice and matte throughout the day.
Revlon ColourStay Foundation is my personal fave at the moment so I applied this all over the face using the colour Natural Tan 330 and my Sigma F50 stippling brush to achieve that flawless finish.
With my fingertips I applied NW30 MAC Prolongwear Concealer under my eyes and onto the tops of my cheekbones to add brightness to these areas. I then went into the inner corner under my eye with Soap&Glory Kickass Concealer in the colour Light(the peach side) to give an extra bright glow!
Using my Sigma F30 powder brush, I pushed INGLOT AMC powder in the number 55 into the skin to set my makeup and make it last longer.
I contoured the face using INGLOT pressed powder in the number 31 and their blusher, number 29 on the apples of my cheeks.
I filled my brows in using an old Sephora angle brush (that I got in a travel set years ago) with a mixture of a matte chocolate brown and a light brown for the inside corners(I don't know the names or brands of the specific ones I used as I got them in my kit when I was back in college!).
Under the brow I highlighted the area using INGLOT eyeshadow in 46 and contoured the eye using my face powder(all over lid) and my contour powder(into the crease). Finish the eye by applying a generous amount of Essence 3in1 mascara to the lashes.
I lined the lips using MAC Boldley Bare lip pencil and filled them in with MAC Honey Love lipstick. Last but not least, a quick coat of Essence Stay With Me lipgloss in 02 My Favourite Milkshake and your good to go!!!

Jx