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Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Get the Look

I kind of did this look a bit backwards. I would usually do the eyes first so if there is any fall out, it can be easily wiped away without effecting your foundation, but due to this look having very natural colours on the eyes, I decided to do the face first.

The face:

I started by using the F55 small duo fibre foundation brush from Sigma and Revlon Photoready Airbrush Mousse Makeup in the colour Shell to the cheekbones, forehead, chin and underneath the eyes. I then used the same foundation in the colour Natural Beige on the rest of the face as this shade matches with the tone of my neck. This means any areas of the face covered with the shade Shell are naturally highlighted giving the face a more airbrushed look.
Using the same brush, I stippled a small amount of MAC NW15 Studio Finish Concealer underneath the eye area, around the nose and a small amount through the cheeks just to add a bit more coverage as these areas can tend to get a bit red throughout the day.
To set the foundation and to mattify the skin I used Inglot AMC Powder in the number 55 all over the face and contoured the forehead, nose, lip and cheekbones with Inglot Pressed Powder in the number 31 and a Sigma F35 tapered brush.
I applied a mixture of MAC Pinkswoon and MAC Fleur Power blusher to the apples of the cheeks using a Sigma F15 duo fibre blush brush to give the cheeks a more rounded appearance.

The eyes:

You want to achieve the 'no makeup' makeup look with the shadows on the eyes. Similar to contouring you want to create seamless shadows and highlights, so blending is key.

I firstly filled in the brows using an Inglot 17TL brow brush and Inglot 329 chocolate matte brown eyeshadow. I paid extra attention to the arch and extension of the tail and used very little product on the inside of the brow. This makes the brow appear more natural. To achieve a clean, sharp brow I carved out the underneath of the brow line using a flat concealer brush and Studio Finish Concealer in NW15. This colour is a few shades lighter than my skin tone so it will act as a natural highlight to the brow bone.

Using my ring finger, I applied MAC Painterly Paintpot and blended it from the lash line into the concealer underneath the brow. This will act as a base/primer to the eyeshadow and brighten the lid, yet still giving coverage to any blue undertones on the lid.

Using a large fluffy brush, I used an Inglot 4SS blender brush, and I applied Inglot 352 matte pale pink eyeshadow on the full eyelid. Using the same brush (because it's tapered) I applied a shade 2-3 shades darker than the lid colour to create a shadow effect and give definition to the crease. I used Inglot 357, a wam matte neutral tone to do this.

I used my favourite liner, Inglot 77 black gel liner, to create the classic 50's flick eyeliner look, making sure it was a thin line on the inside, getting thicker at the outside corner of the eye and extended out into a tapered flick towards the tail of the brow.

Lashes:

I removed the Inglot 16N lashes from the box carefully from the outside corner of the lash using a tweezers. I was extra careful doing this a I didn't want to distort the shape of the lash because this would effect how the lash sits on your eye making them unwearable. I then took some Inglot 22S long individual lashes and I attached these to the lashband of the 16N lashes at the outside corner using clear DUO Glue. I did this about a third of the way into the lash from the outside to achieve that winged, cat-eye lash look. I used the same clear DUO Glue to apply the lashes to the eye. Once set, I went over the lash band with the gel liner again.
I then applied Inglot False Lash Mascara and I wiggled the product through my own natural lashes. This application technique will weave your natural lashes into the false ones so the two sets of lashes appear as one and sit on top of each other comfortably.

The Lips:

I firstly applied a small amount of MAC Diva matte lipstick to the lips, not going too close to the natural outline of the lip. I then used Kryolan lip liner in the colour 910 to line the lip on the very outside of the natural lip line to give the appearance of a fuller lip. This is personal preference if you want your lips to appear fuller or not.

Thre ya have it guys!! Try it out yourselves

J xxx



Monday, February 4, 2013

Get the Look!! Channel your inner Monroe!!

Before I began this look, I firstly applied my oilatum moisturiser and let it sink into the skin for the duration of the eye application to allow it to work its magic!

Using an Inglot 4SS brush, I buffed MAC Prolongwear Concealer all over the lid from the lash line to the brow in the colour NW20 to act as an eye primer as this concealer does not crease.
Using an Inglot 17TL brow brush and MAC Fluidline in Dipdown, I carved my brow from the bottom of the arch and then downwards to extend the tail. I then cleaned off that same brush in a tissue and used it with MAC Cork eyeshadow to lightly fill in the inside corner of the brow to achieve an ombré effect. Using a Sigma F70 flat concealer brush, I then carved the underneath of the brow with MAC Studio Finish Concealer in NW15 to achieve a clean, sharp look and to act as a highlight to the brow bone.
I applied MAC Painterly Paint Pot to the lid from the lash line up to the crease using the same F70 concealer brush to intensify the colour of the eyeshadows. Then, using an Inglot 9S flat eyeshadow brush, I pressed 373 Inglot matte white eyeshadow all over the lid up to the crease, packing on the colour to intensify the brightness.
Using the same 9S brush, I dipped the tip of the brush into MAC Cork eyeshadow that we used earlier and I pushed this colour into the crease above the white, the whole way across the eye. I then used an Inglot 6SS brush to buff out this colour and extend it upwards. I then used a mixture of 329 Inglot matte chocolate brown and MAC Brun eyeshadow, a dark cool brown, in the crease using an Inglot 10S small blender brush to define the crease. I also brought this combination of colours underneath the bottom lash line the full way across the eye.
I lined the lid using Inglot 77 Gel Liner extending the line outwards from the corner of the eye into a thick flick and along the upper and lower waterline. Again using the 10S blender brush I defined the outside corner and outer corner of the crease with a matte black, Inglot 63 eyeshadow. Don't be afraid to go over the liner a little.
I then applied some false lashes. I used Eyelure 202 lashes for this look and applied them with clear DUO Glue, available worldwide. I then applied Inglot False Lash Mascara to my own natural lashes to weave them through the false ones making it look more natural.

On to the face:
My skin feels nice and hydrated now so I can go straight in with my foundation. I dampened my Beauty Blender first and used this with my MAC W10 full coverage foundation and applied the product to the centre of the nose, the middle of the forehead, under the eyes and onto the cheekbones. I used the Beauty Blender to stipple this product right into the skin so there is no residue of any oils on the surface of the face.
I then used MAC NW35 full coverage foundation and the same sponge and applied it to the rest of the face making sure the two colours are blended seamlessly.
Again , using the Beauty Blender, I stippled Maybelline Fit Me concealer in the colour 15 underneath my eyes to brighten the area.
To set all the liquids on the face, I used Inglot AMC Powder in 55 and used my Sigma F25 to apply this to the whole face.
To contour I used my Sigma F35 and Inglots No.30 Pressed Powder underneath the cheekbones, around the hairline, down the side of the nose and underneath the bottom lip to give the illusion that these areas are more hollow. Use this product sparingly as it is very dark and highly pigmented so only a little is needed.
To add a bit of colour to the cheeks I applied Fleur Power Blusher from MAC using a Sigma F15 duo fibre blush brush. This I applied along the cheekbone to achieve the illusion of a natural lift to the face, especially for mature skins.

I lined the lips with Inglot 58 lip liner, focusing slightly on the outer edge of the natural lip line to achieve a fuller lip. I filled in the lips with MAC RubyWoo matte lipstick.


And there ya have it guys. All the steps you need to channel your inner Monroe! xxx

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Luscious Lashes

Lashes can be a bit of a tricky one if you're not used to applying them, but don't worry, there are lots of tricks to help you achieve those sexy, sultry, luscious lashes!

Quick Tip:
Always apply liner before you apply your false eyelashes as it will fill in any gap between the real lashes and the false ones which you won't be able to get to when your falsies are on!
Liquid or gel liner is the best to use as it will glide on easily over the lash line, a pencil however will drag along the skin and may cause the lash to lift from the skin!

1. All lashes are made larger than the typical eye so that they fit all shapes and sizes. It is important to cut all strip false lashes to your eye size to avoid the excess drooping at the sides giving you that sleepy, dragged down look. If the lash fits the eye properly they are a lot more comfortable to wear and they are less likely to lift at the corners! Remove the lash carefully from the box using a tweezers gripping the outside corner if the lash (this is because if you damage the lash while removing it from the box, you are more than likely going to be cutting this bit off to fit your eye shape). Using the same tweezers, hold the lash upto the eye and see where you need to trim the edges to suit your eye!
Note: Always cut the lash from the outer corner. If you cut from the inner corner the lash fibres will look too long and give you an unnatural finish!

2. Using a cotton bud, take some eyelash adhesive (DUO glue is the best to use) and run the glue along the band if the lash. Make sure there is not too much or too little, just enough to cover the band!
Note: The thinner the band the easier the lash is to apply and blend with your natural lashes. If the band is quite thick it can be tricky to keep corners down and some you would need a thick liquid/gel liner to disguise the band with your makeup.

3. Wait! I know this sounds strange, but if you apply the lash straight away, the glue is so wet that it will slide on the eye and take ages to set, therefore ruining your makeup masterpiece!
Wait until the glue gets slightly tacky in consistency(around 15-20 seconds) and then apply. Place the outer corner on first and wait for it to begin setting, then bring the rest of the lash inwards towards the inner part of the eye. This will make the application much easier. Allow the lash to set before moving on.
Note: Do this looking into a mirror below you as it will be easier to place the lash on when the natural lashes are pointing downwards.

4. Apply more eyeliner. This will get rid of any visible lashline or any thick areas of glue. Always wait for glue to dry completely before doing this step.

5. Apply mascara. By applying mascara after the false lashes it helps to blend the natural lashes into the false ones so they sit better. Always make sure to coat the lashes right down to the root of the lash so it not only gives you maximum length but it costs any visible blonde hairs too.

6. Always keep your lash box. After your night out remove lashes and put them back onto the false lids in the box and you can reuse them again!!

And there you go ladies. Remember all lashes are reusable if you look after them so be careful removing them so they don't get out of shape!!

Enjoy your luscious lashes ladies

Jx

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Beautiful Brows

Nothing completes your makeup look like finishing touches such as filling in your eyebrows. Not only do they frame the face, but if done correctly, they can open the eye more, lift the lid and give you a finished and more professional look.
When I was younger, I unfortunately got extremely tweezer happy and decided to butcher my poor eyebrows within an inch of their lives! It's safe to say they haven't grown back! Because of this, I will rarely leave the house without filling in my brows!
This is how I achieve my eyebrow look:

1. I first brush through the natural hairs in my brow, making sure all the hairs are going in the same direction, I do this using a spoolie brush.

2. Due to all the hairs sitting in the direction of growth, I can then see any stray hairs that need to be plucked. I usually pluck stray hairs everyday, I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my brows!
If your trying to grow out your eyebrows, it's best to draw the eyebrow on first and then to pluck around it as you then aren't tempted to pluck any strays that are growing into your natural shape that you want due to them being covered with shadow.

3. Now the brow is nice and neat, I use my Sigma F70 concealer brush and I can now map out where I want my brow to be starting at the arch. The arch is the highest area of the brow before it curves downwards. I love elongated brows, so I like my arch to be right above the outside corner of my eye.
I use MAC NC20 to do this as it is much lighter in colour to my foundation, so it acts as a highlight to the brow bone.
I then use my Sigma P80 flat precision kabuki eye brush to blend the concealer into the foundation flawlessly.

4. Next step is the colour in the brow. I use Inglot 329 chocolate matte eyeshadow as it suits my hair colour. The colour of your brows should always match the root of your natural hair colour.
I personally use a brow brush from an old Sephora travel brush set, but any angled brow brush will do. I find real hair brushes hold the product a lot better and prevents too much downfall from the shadow onto the face.
I start the shadow at the arch and I carve out the tail of the brow by extending the tail out more than my natural hair, both top and bottom so the shadow meets at the tip.I then fill in between these lines.
Then, not leaning as much on the brush so the intensity of the shadow is softer, I define the bottom of the brow inwards towards the nose. This should be in line with your nostrils (you can use your makeup brush along the nose to measure where this is to suit your own personal eye shape). Again leaning lightly, I do the same at the top so I am left with a defined shape.
Using the excess product on my brush, I fill in the inner part of the brow nice and lighltly.

5. With the brow drawn on, I then take my spoolie brush again and I brush through the inner part of my brow. To soften and disperse the colour through the natural hairs.

6. I carve under the brow again with my concealer and brush to achieve a clean carving.

7. I then highlight the brow bone using a MAC 239 flat eyeshadow brush and a mixture of Inglot 46 (all under the brow) and 393 (focused under the arch) to reflect the light giving the illusion that the brow is more prominent.

8. I give a light coating is Essence clear mascara brow gel to set and keep my natural hairs in place.

And that's it guys! I know it seems like a lot but it'll make a huge difference to your makeup!
I'd love to see how you get on! If on Instagram tag me your brows under @missjenifat and #religionrising.
See how you get on!!

Jx

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Application of Product

Your application of makeup is an extremely crucial step in achieving that flawless, professional look.

1. Many people use their fingers to apply their foundation. This method may seem like the best option to some but it is not recommended as you end up pushing half of your product into your fingertips, therefore using up to double the amount necessary. You also are doing a rub on-rub off method as not all of the product is being transferred onto the face, again a waste of foundation!
Your fingertips are naturally very oily. As the hands are being constantly used throughout the day, the body develops oils to protect the skin, by applying your makeup with your fingers, you are transferring these oils onto the face which can result in an unnecessary breakout.
Not only breakouts, but these oils can also prevent your foundation from setting properly, so your foundation can separate and move on the face throughout the day giving you a patchy look to your makeup.

2. Application of foundation using a sponge is another method I would never recommend. If using a sponge to apply makeup to your own face (never use the same sponge on different people without cleaning and sterilising it first) you should be changing it at least once a week. Most people don't do this!
A makeup sponge is a perfect place for bacteria to grow and to multiply. By using the sponge, you are then transferring this bacteria onto your face which will almost definitely cause breakouts!
Another negative to using a sponge is that it absorbs a lot of your product. It essentially drinks your foundation so you will find yourself working your way through your bottle very quickly.
When applying foundation with a sponge, you drag the skin and any foundation on it, therefore, again achieving the rub on-rub off method.

There is a sponge I would recommend, the infamous beauty blender. This sponge is a 3D teardrop shape and can apply foundation flawlessly. You first dampen the sponge and squeeze out any excess water. You then stipple the product onto the skin using the beauty blender to achieve that flawless base. I would definitely recommend washing this sponge after every use (especially if using it on other people). I'm not sure if it is the density, shape or texture of this certain sponge which makes it so good, but it gets a definite thumbs up from me!
I recommend MAC Beauty Blender €18/€19, Models Own do two for around €12 or for the tighter budgets, H&M do a version for around €4.

And so this leaves me to the brushes:
3. The flat foundation brush comes in all shapes and sizes. On clients, I use this brush to firstly apply their primer and then to apply a first layer of foundation, I then apply a fine second layer using a stipple brush which I will explain further on.
I find the flat foundation brush easy to use on clients as it can be easily directed into small areas of the face.
I however don't like to use this brush to apply my own foundation. I find it hard to build up the coverage of a foundation with this brush alone and unwanted lines can be easily overlooked as they are harder to blend out.
A definite plus to this brush is whatever product you put on this brush, around 98% of the foundation is transferred onto the face. The brush does not absorb the product and is so simple to spot clean or deep cleanse. They also last you years if you invest in a good one!
I love the MAC 190 €32 or Sigma F60 €11.

4. Last but not least is the stipple brush. You can get these in different bristle lengths, shapes and hair types.
What makes these brushes so unique is the blend of synthetic(longer bristles, usually white) and real hair(usually black). This blend of different bristles helps to push the product right into the skin, making the foundation not only last longer but also helps you achieve a flawless looking complexion that appears smoother.
Due to the shape of the brush, the individual hairs do all the work for you. They not only push the product into the skin but they blend out the product effortlessly, leaving you line free! You can also build up the coverage by pushing the brush onto the skin, it can build up beautifully!
This brush, like the flat foundation brush, transfers most of the product onto the face. Not only does the makeup last longer on your face, but you will find you will get longer out of your bottle too!
I would definitely recommend the Sigma F15 Duo Fibre Blusher Brush to apply foundation as I love the size and the dome shape to the brush, €14.

Try it out guys and see if you see a difference in your makeup!!

Jx